17.4.08

India.Ari gets lost in the ether, in the chaos

I've got things to focus on these days, important things, meaningful things. I've got to make my credit card fluctuate within a certain range, I've got to set out on an ambitious plan to accomplish something that at one point seemed remarkably ambitious but in hindsight, after accomplishing (or, quite possibly, not), will most likely seem trivial and surprisingly unsatisfying. I've got to wake up in the morning and feel like I am the man I've become, like there's a path leading somewhere and I'm on it. I've got to bullshit with the real-lifers, criticize with the cruel gang, and sympathize with the sufferers. I've got to keep in touch, get in touch, touchy-touch, and touch up. 

So, basically, what my personal forecast is telling me is that I've got to be distracted by things out of my control for sometime. Things that hold sway over future self-forecasts and therefore merit attention. Unfortunately, for us on-again-off-again lazy people, this means giving up certain "treats" such as blogging and making no money, although making money is still a distant prospect at this juncture. Also, my mental forecast has been transmitting dark clouds and fatigue for a while and may need a period of retuning and reworking before anything like coherent messages are released. Also, I'm just tired of blogging.

So I think India.ari is going on hiatus, and most likely quietus. As I've said before I'd like to keep writing about something somewhere, for some good reason. I've got some ideas, and combined with some good I might be onto something. We'll see. I'll try to keep in touch with everyone. I would love to keep in touch with everyone. Send me emails and stuff. 

And remember. Reading is FUNdamental. So keep reading. Just not my blog.

india.ari


"There is a time for blogging and a time for remembering that blogs have only existed for a few years so give it a fucking break already."
-Bono, U2 or maybe that famous writer. I don't remember. 

12.4.08

not thinking

ok, i am back in bangkok staying at the same hostel as two weeks ago, just flew in from luang prabang, laos. laos is really nice, bucolic, chill, mellow. did many things with adam. got caught in a freak monsoon while tubing down the mekong river. lots of lighting, thought death might be near, adrenaline pumping, adam shouting, we luckily got a boat ride back in the storm and shook the driver's hand at the end then drank some crap whisky and shivered for a while.

it's that time of year in asia when everyone throws water on each other for 4 days. yesterday got soaked in the back of a tuk tuk countless times. feels good mostly. celebrating the thai new year or something. tried to read a bernard malamud book but really hated it. thought a lot about blogging but apparently can only find the motivation when traveling alone. motivation is fading as my 8-months in asia comes to a close.

not sure how life back in the states will be, but i am looking forward to it. looking forward to heat under 90. don't know what else to say right now. flew in a propellor plane for the first time in ages, have vague memory of vomiting as a child after exiting a propellor plane, and then getting the chicken pox. not sure if those were related incidents. sold my backpack to a guy on the street for 7 dollars after refusing to sell it to the street vendor for half that. the guy told me his wife was from india and then the next minute he told someone else she was from nepal. he also made us "do the deal" in an alley as if anyone would care. i hated that bag. i used to for 3 weeks and it broke 3 times...wow that guy i just mentioned just found me in this internet cafe and gave me a key to a lock that i accidentially left in the bag. and i was just about to accuse him of being a doped-up ex-hippee loser. but now i think he's cool.

life is still strange, but less so since leaving india. god am i glad to be out of that house.

1.4.08

wardrobe debriefing

Back with Adam, things are good. We are skipping the Grand Palace today to try and go see Wong Kar Wai's new movie instead.

In other news, am concerted that if I don't get out of Asia soon, by the time I get back to the States my wardrobe will be irredeemable. I can't seem to handle shopping in small shops while surrounded by lots of eager store clerks, my already delicate sense of style is quickly overwhelmed and I make unadvisable purchases.

Yesterday I bought a gray, short-sleeved silk shirt for nearly $30 when I had all the intentions of buying nothing. This is a funny story involving tuk tuk rides, gaudy buddhas, giant buddhas, taylored suits and with the general theme of me being slightly ripped off and slightly bored and indifferent to being slightly ripped off. But it will have to wait.

Tonight we head to Laos.

29.3.08

Out of India, all stamps stamped

Immediate reactions upon leaving India (and landing in Bangkok)-

-I can't seem to stop wagging my head at people-the South Indian way to acknowledge almost any action- and am having to remember that in other places than South India this motion very closely resembles no rather than yeah, sure, good, fine, of course, no problem. Almost ended up rejecting the flight meal because of this confusion.

-Immediately fell in love with Bangkok because it is NOT Chennai. Am worried this new, dumbed-down way of gauging my affinity for cities could lead to misconceptions in the long run.

-Am tempted to bargain hard for everything, which has thus far resulted in several auto drivers laughing at me as they leave me in the dust. Need to stop assuming that everyone is charging a minimum of double the going rate for everything.

-And, not too surprisingly, but with odd decisiveness, my stomach appears to be the happiest, or at least the most understanding, about being out of India. Immediately after checking into my hotel it decided to relieve itself of all existing matter, I assume in the great anticipation of eating new and more easily solidified food.

That's all for the immediate.

27.3.08

India.ari - India = _______

I’ve reflected, I’ve rejected, I’ve reinstated. I’ve complained, I’ve compiled, I’ve computed. I’ve misappropriated, I’ve misconstrued, I’ve misused. I’ve sinned, I’ve signed, I’ve signaled—I’ve blogged.

And eight months hence, I’ve reached a critical juncture: I can no longer entertain the masses as the blogger known as India.ari because I will no longer be in India and that would just be stupid. I know I avowed that I would be masquerading as the Jewish New Mexican in India for a whole year, with promises of a “life more interesting”, a life chock full of details worth documenting and experiences worth recounting, but things change, life happens, life doesn’t happen, time heals, and sometimes we don’t get what we want but what we need.

So, sparing the details and the ins and outs, which might be better presented over coffee and a sandwich some lazy salad day when everything feels less cumbersome, but more hazy, less immediate, but better understood (possibly), I simply ask you to take note, at least fleetingly, of the fact that in two days I will no longer be in India.

I will be something like this (if interpreted in hypothetical-blog form): Thailand.ari, Laos.ari, Portland.ari, NewMexico.ari, California.ari, PuertoRico.ari, and then…________.ari (most likely Portland.ari again, but I like to build the suspense).


So, don’t hesitate, just ask, “Will you keep blogging?”

And I respond, “I think so, at least for the next couple weeks, after that I’ll need to consider other things like creative new blog names or if my life still surpasses the interest-threshold required for me to want to think about it overtime enough to continue to write about it.”

And I continue, saying mostly to myself, “But in the meantime, let’s buck up for the ride. Let’s perk up for springtime, and let’s brush off the seat of our pants. Let’s learn from all this and remember why we came here in the first place. Let’s be appreciative and compassionate and forgiving. And forgetting.”

And, in unison, united for a brief moment, we all say, “Let’s!”

And then we all abruptly return to thinking about clever blog names and feeding ourselves and considering our relationship with this incredibly complex planet we live on and the nature of this or that, girls, jobs, money, politics, friendship…

So it goes.

20.3.08

On Trains




For a long time I've meant to write a blog detailing my experiences on Indian long-distance trains; to chronicle my 36-hour Chennai-Delhi (and back, another 36) business trip back in January; to document my nearly full week spent on trains since my arrival in India. But alas, time does not travel by track, it flies, and my aspirations, instead of dashing forward, have been dashed.

I even jotted down memorable train happenings in preparation--the people I sat near, the food, the toilets, the views, the noises, the smells, the "whatever...maybe I'm crazy thoughts" experienced near hour 23, the "I'm a fucking genius" epiphanies near hour 32. I even recall spending several hours on the train considering how to address this elusive train entry, probably mostly because I was pretty bored (hours 6-9 perhaps?).

I wanted to convey the odd feeling of waking up in the morning after a stop-and-go-night, a loud-horn-hot-cold-disturbing dream-night, removing your earplugs, straightening your pants, and watching village people relieve themselves by the side of the tracks as you pass by at 30 km/hr awaiting your chai and your chance to use the toilet and leave your own mark on the tracks. I wanted paint a nice picture of the routine Indians have on the train--sleep, eat, talk, reshuffle things, yell a little, drool a little--they can take a 36-hour train ride and not have anymore entertainment than the day they were born. It's quite amazing considering my step brothers get a DVD player in the back seat of the car or the hoards of ipod shufflers tuning out and waiting for the 5th subway stop to arrive. I wanted to say something about simplicity, and practicality, about sustainability and reliability. About how I always seemed to end up bunked in the middle of a Jr. High cricket team or a Middle School field trip, about the casual manner in which everyone disposes of their trash out the window, about the way little kids can stare at the white man until, until, maybe until he turns dark.

But Chennai is getting hot and at 33 C and up maybe it's hard for me to stream all these special little occurrences together when my body would rather my mind not stall on day-long train rides for too long, but rather ice cream or bagels, or mountains. So, as has become routine (similar to my routine complaining about the heat), when words fail then I resort to ill-conceived digital camera videos which offer mildly better insight with far less effort. I have to credit Adam and his fancy "audio recording" camera for this clip, and for keeping his sense of humor after waiting 3 hours for the train while immersed in a sea of Indians with rummy 500 and acetaminophen, and each other's company, as our only solace.

18.3.08

Blog vs. Caveman (#$*%@ vs. AARRGGHHH)

Sometimes, more times than some might think, I find myself in the midst of a histrionic cavemen impersonation with no clear idea how I arrived at such a point or how now to regain my standard solemn composure. Whether in freshman calculus, while walking down a crowded drunken street, or within the intimacy of nighttime snuggle, a barbaric snort or threatening growl can prove surprisingly satisfying. Just try it—furl your brow, push out your chin, widen your lips, flare your nostrils, and, well, meet yourself version 1.0.

These caveman expressions are only natural I tell myself. Furthermore, people even seem to enjoy them, laughing with me, or at me, or whatever. The point being everyone gets “caveman”: loud, obnoxious, uncivilized, dirty, disgusting, dumb—no ego, no superego, all id. Just plain, wholesome id sprawled over the great untamable earth, like a beautiful caveman dance being choreographed as it pans out across the plains of time, maybe a little like Capoeta.

And what represents the opposite extreme, the ultimate manifestation of the unnatural and artificial, of these caveman noises and gestures, these brutish manifestations of our, humankind’s origins, our roots and essence? I’ll tell you what: blogs. Try imitating a blog. It’s no fun. What do you even do? Write self-absorbingly about mundane things? Flesh out your day-to-day life by recording it on this digital screen-thing that doesn’t really exist anywhere. Cavemen may only exist in the past, but they also exist within us, and is there a blog inside each and every one of us?... The scary thing is there just might be.

I must admit that making caveman noises for an hour is not always as satisfying, although physically yes it is, as writing a pointless blog entry for the equivalent duration. With this under consideration, I propose we drop the contrasts and instead focus on the similarities: people are watching and judging you all the time, whether you are howling like a rabid hyena or blogging about your sister’s boyfriend’s sister (what a babe!), and this is important to remember.

If I apply for a job, can I make caveman noises in the interview? Unless I’m auditioning for that Gecko ad campaign, probably not. Can I blog about how I sometimes make caveman noises in similar real-life situations? Probably still not a good idea, but, apparently, one that can’t be ruled out.

So be careful in which contexts you open the vents through which your primitive energies may release themselves in grunts and growls. Make sure you consider, if only for a fleeting moment, the words you post in your public journal and the meaning, once strung together, which they form. Because your girlfriend, or your mother, your boss, or that person you got a picture of while they were scratching themselves—they could all be reading, carefully, between the lines, forming their opinions of you and judging your every character, judging your very character!

Which means, of course, make sure to read their blogs also—because if we can’t resolve our issues like cavemen (and we can’t, I’ve tried…), at least we can read about our issues and maybe think about how much better as a society we really are than cavemen, how advanced we are, how literate we are. Because, no, we can’t hit people with wooden mallets or drag people by their hair anymore, but we can pound keyboards.

11.3.08



After nearly seven months in India I've been given new eyes to see through. And although these eyes might not always be the most expressive, not entirely usurping my jaded views, they are nonetheless fresh and inquisitive, and have managed to rejuvenate my long-suppressed traveler's instincts.

Mostly that means that Adam has arrived and that we had a fun weekend slurping up food with our hands, visiting new age cities based on unity AND diversity (and propaganda), and cramming into the front of buses, where our American tushes were warmed by the engine and our American imaginations warmed by the lush scenery and death-nearly-not-defying driving.

Adam also managed to warm my soul, no simply task one might argue, by providing fruits from the outside world--decent quality hard alcohol. Unfortunately, or fortunately, I'm not sure which, I previously learned the hard way that it's difficult to drink a lot in India and not regret it for a lot longer than you appreciate it for, so mostly we've kept our imbibing limited to a few meal-time sips.

It's been nice to feel like an accomplished host, and as I took Adam on the neighborhood tour-- snacks, juice, tape shopping, movie rental, toilet paper, beach, cigarette stall, tailor, dinner, more juice, soda for the booze--I had no choice but to come to terms with my superb navigational skills over this town (large suburb of giant Indian city). Maybe people can intuit this accomplishment somehow, considering I continue to get asked directions by people far more Indian looking than myself.

I remember I spent the first week after I arrived mostly holed-up inside, eating buttered toast and reading guidebooks in an attempt to get a handle on what was happening in the exotic, and chaotic, land beyond the confines of my residence. I've noticed Adam has been experiencing similar symptoms.

7.3.08

"You've Got Mail...But You Wouldn't Know it"


Dear Dad,

Thanks so much for your caring package. Even though I would have loved some new ceramics to place on my mantel, considering the state of the package's arrival I am glad you chose to mail used copies of books I mostly don't want to read instead.

As I waited for my change at the post office this morning, having already had to run across the street to the hotel to make smaller change for the clerk to make even smaller change from, I thought I might as well inquire about that package you mailed me over a month ago. I took the usual path to the parcel area, walking behind the counter and weaving through the stampers and shufflers, until I reached the stackers, and, primarily, the sit-arounders. I pointed at myself and announced my name, my address, the color of my skin and the word 'parcel.' After several repetitions someone took note and pointed to the legally blind guy over in the corner who always seems to be rubbing his glasses as if they are the cause of his blindness, otherwise known as my neighborhood postman.

I walked over to him, placed my face inches from his face, and began repeating the same phrases as before. A few moments later he realized someone was talking to him, replaced his glasses, and said something like, "Ah, patouti package." Pretty soon everyone except me began repeating "patouti package," a bit like that scene in "Being John Malkovich" where all the Malkovich heads repeat "Malkovich" in different intonations. Someone advised me to take a seat and a few people began moving things around.

Eventually a cabinet adjacent to my blind postman was opened, and there on the top shelf sat my package, looking as good as the day it first emerged from the dumpster. A man made a few apologetic gestures and then showed me a piece of paper describing the poor conditions of the package, which seemed unnecessary since I could clearly see for myself.

I guess if your parcel is "patouti" they don't need to notify you of its arrival, they can just wait for you to come and claim it, or you can just never come, whatever really--when you're a blind postman it's not really your job to over-analyze these situations.

So, as I was saying, thanks for the package dad. It finally arrived and I can now reread "White Fang," just like I always wanted.

It's good to know you care though, seriously.

Your estranged son,
Ari

3.3.08

I've Somehow Ended Up in India, part I; CHANGE

Below is part 1 of a longer piece I've been working on based on my time in India. I already have a few changes in mind for this section, but I thought I might as well post it and see if any feedback came in. In anycase, I'll be happy if people just take a look.

I. Change

“I’ve been in India for six months” I say. What a boring way of seeing things. What a linear approach: I was born, I was alive for this long, I’ve been in India for this long, and so on. No wonder I’m having trouble. It’s like I’m waiting in line. For what? For life to begin? By doing what? By getting closer to the end. This is not right, I should not think this way. In India they don’t wait in line. In India they cluster, they nudge, they jar, they even shove. They hold their money in their hands and wave it. Dirty money all over the place, like the crowd at a Phish concert, but dirty bills instead of dirty lighters and everyone’s yelling angrily for the next song to start. I keep my money in the bank and watch the value fluctuate online like a temperamental Gigapet or something. I stare at a screen and type passwords that remind me of things I would rather not be reminded of. I swipe plastic through plastic, occasionally glancing at the magnetic strip incredulously. How can I hold my money out in front of my face, how can I exhibit this recklessness, this disregard yet inherent respect for chance, for vagary, for change, if I can’t even permit things to become physical in the first place: if I can’t allow the change to jingle. If I can’t relinquish some of these unwelcome perspectives, these obstructive patterns, how can I really start or, more importantly, end?

But I’ve somehow ended up in India, and that could be considered a start, right? I might’ve just heard a little jingle deep down in my crisp pockets. Let’s see if we can’t translate that jingle into something a bit catchier, a bit more memorable.

John Berger is a famous art critic, still alive and breathing somewhere in Paris last time I checked, most famous for his book Ways of Seeing where he attempts to explain Western Art and culture since the Renaissance in terms of semiotics, the study of signs, rather than in terms of the inherent qualities of the art itself. In large part an exercise in not mistaking subjective things for objective things and understanding where our perspectives originate. For example, how does art become something of great monetary value? Is it because the object is really so magnificent and unique that it is clearly priceless, or is it often largely due to the surrounding culture and the people and processes in control of what that culture “values”? Or why do the women in most pre-20th century oil paintings usually stare passively away from or beyond the onlooker rather than directly confront their gaze? Is this because that’s how women look or how men, almost always the painters, chose to depict women? Or, an example applicable to India: why are the women in advertisements and movie always much lighter-skinned than your average Indian woman? What purpose does this serve? What could be the original motivations behind these choices? Does art imitate life or life art, what is the relationship?

These are the types of questions Berger raises in Ways of Seeing, in my opinion an educational, informative, maybe even ground breaking book, but at this point, dated and docile, not going far enough as 21st century post-theory, post-everything would like it to.

And the change continues to jingle, just a bit perhaps.

John Berger had some hand (perhaps in my pocket) in me ending up here in India. I read John Berger in college and this at least, and really at most, mildly influenced me in pursuing my current trend of life decisions in which I make them mostly because they are unusual, interesting, and/or unorthodox, or, honestly, often simply without any clear “good” reason. I can remember sitting in a large lecture hall reserved from 6:00-7:50 p.m. for Visual Arts 1A feeling the need to escape somewhere far away, both due to the content of the course and my desire to have nothing to do with it. I imagine Berger would appreciate these moderately anti-establishmentarian sentiments, considering his skepticism of things unconsidered, things left unchecked. Yes, even if I have been taking jobs and making “connections” under the guise of pursuing a career, inside I’m still just a student in a classroom—comfortable enough with my cushioned chair and discreet crossword, but anxious to get out, for the bell to ring, so I can see if I can’t shake this perpetual feeling that I’m missing something.

More important than that digression though, John Berger was a primary influence on the founders of the publisher I work for, and without his past academic and cultural breakthroughs, his critical writings, this ambitious, and ambitiously independent, project might never had come to fruition and I might never have been Intern #1 (I arrived first), design intern, and, as it were, lazy, bored and selfish intern.

And the change falls silent, cold stares all around. Could there be a hole in my pocket?

There’s no denying it, I am getting lazier and lazier as the seconds tick slowly by. Maybe I should just walk out onto the street and situate myself somewhere amongst the endless supply of men who’s livelihood seems to consist of sipping teas and fresh juices, and occasionally preparing those teas and fresh juices as well. I feel at about their level of productivity right now. I could take off my pants, tie up a lungi (a sheet basically), and mosey on over to the local chi stand for a day full of nothingness. Is that laziness? What I’m considering doing? What they’re doing? What I’m doing? Sitting here avoiding the menial tasks I’ve been assigned? Yes it must be. I’ve been conditioned, to see, to feel, to believe this to be laziness. I am actively fulfilling the definition of laziness: unwilling to work or use energy. I’m lazy, maybe not quite as lazy as the Indians lounging around day after day in front of the tea stall, but how productive can one consider oneself when reduced to comparing and contrasting levels of laziness with tea walas?

But let’s dig a bit deeper, see if we can’t generate some noise, if only for John Berger’s sake. Where do I get my impression of laziness? It turns out, with a few clicks of the mouse, I can relearn that laziness is known as ‘sloth’ in Christian moral tradition, basically the tradition under which all Americans are raised, and it is considered one of the seven capital sins. No wonder I see laziness as representing something so heretical. No wonder I consider lounging around drinking tea most of the day so preposterous; it says right there, "For Satan finds some mischief still for idle hands to do." ("Against Idleness and Mischief" by Isaac Watts). Somehow I doubt that Indian culture views idleness this way, in fact, having lived here six months I know it doesn’t, otherwise they’d all be possessed by Satan. Although the more Westernized India becomes the more change it desires in its pockets, the bigger its pants pockets get, and the less time it has to relax.

And so we can glimpse the importance of understanding the various ways of seeing that different cultures possess, seeing them as subjective rather than objective—through different lenses perhaps—as contingent upon ourselves rather than independent from us.

In fact, now that I think about it, it gives me hope, although fleeting, to see these Indians outside, hanging around, suspended somewhere between celebrating one God’s marriage and another’s birth, paused en route between the rice vendor and the next Bollywood flick. This could be more natural. This could be more in accord with the way the world spins, in a self-perpetuating circle, rather than in a line, en route to where? Maybe this is more giving, more holistic, less conducive to unhealthy neurosis, rampant pill popping and other ailments the West has self-proscribed. But then again, most people in India don’t have indoor plumbing, or electricity. And pill popping is nearly just as big of a problem. So you see, of course, it’s very confusing. There’s change passing hands, changing pockets, every which way in this crazy world, and India, although I sometimes find it hard to believe, is most certainly a part of that world.

26.2.08

the Unitasker

Contrary to how I sometimes feel, my job consists of numerous tasks and duties for which I could compose a relatively lengthy list. I perform several specialized functions and when I’m not occupied by one of those I still manage to keep busy by scanning or making ultimately worthless charts in Microsoft Excel. Occasionally I even find myself busy as “postprandial chocolate errand boy,” or “google-this-topic man”.

It’s come to my attention in India that there are many jobs whose entire function, the summation of the criteria of the entire job, can be summed up as one, often quite simple, task. For instance when I walk into the local electronics shop: there’s a door opener, a man who follows my eyes and tries to grab everything off the shelf as I glance at it, a man who enters my purchase into the computer, a man who takes my money, a man who gives me my change, a man who places my purchase in a bag, and, then, the door opener again.

A common job consisting of a single task is the “stamper.” The stamper stamps. He’ll stamp your food order, he’ll stamp your airplane ticket, he’ll stamp your letter, I guess he would even stamp your hand if you asked. I like to imagine the stamper going home after work and soaking his hand, or continuing to pound things compulsively; I imagine both the fatigued and the chronic must exist.

What’s interesting though is when these unitaskers fail in their unitask. You would think if not out of pride for a job well done they would at least want to complete the task out of a desire to avoid criticism, considering it comes so easily: “x only had to do one simple thing, how could x mess that up!” x only had to add up my bill of two items, x only had to not lose my package, x only had to bring us the same number of menus as people, x only had to…

One quick example: at the Taj Mahal there was a man who took people's shoes as they approached the mausoleum and in return gave them a paper indicating the cubby number in which the shoes could be found. Then, upon departure, he took your paper and returned your shoes. I guess this could be argued as two tasks, but let’s leave it for the sake of example. Upon my return I gave him my paper, reading something like 58, and he ensued to search seemingly aimlessly for my cubby. Even though this man was only in charge of cubbies 50-59, and even though I could see the cubby and my shoes just 10 feet in front of me, there he was searching up and down and all around.

Eventually he happened upon my shoes and the task was complete. I tipped him; not for the service but for the experience.

22.2.08

Why?

is what I'm listening to right now. It reminds me of those jejune days, those salad days, those delicious fruit salad days, when I aspired to be a freestyle rapper who played his own drums, made his own sic [sic] beats. I would wear a blue hoodie and khakis and blow the world kisses of sly, biting, wry poetic prose. That was of course before I heard my own voice or listened to myself try and hit things in tempo.

I will compose below some sort of ode to this lost feeling, this dreamlike whimper from which I once, and again, so richly woolgathered. If you'd like to hear something legitimately good, go hear!, because Why? not.


I crank out style like I’m the flowing Nile looking downstream with one eye on the Egyptian rank’n’file. I crank out crap like I’m in the Guinness, or it’s the morning after car bombs and minions. I crank up up and away like anyone who’s got too much to know what’s wrong but really wants to sing-song along anyway.

I come home late at night but it’s only six o’clock. I catch the bus uptown but I wouldn’t mind if it stopped. I crank out theories like they were never meant to apply. I only apply myself to theories floating up so high in the sky.

I’m making history like I need a pass to go to the bathroom. I’m dipping metaphors like double-dare goo all over the wrong answer. I lack coherence like I forgot the sticky substance when I posted my placard.

I crank out style like I’m flowing down the Ganges and I’m about to climb the holy stairs. I crank out of style.




Alternates:
- They call me Keith Olberman because I once dated a nineteen-year-old, now I’m stampeding out of buses somewhere in the old world.
- I try to make out the delta but nothing’s coming together.
- I make music with my fingers, like a typewriter that’s got syphilis.
- I see rank all around me but I’m still so damn hungry.

19.2.08

LESSON IN LOCAL CULTURE (X+1)

I know I pontificate a lot about buses and trains and transportation in general on this self-indulgent blog all about me, but no ones forcing you to read it, right? And maybe you're not, maybe I'm just talking to myself. In which case, shut up already.

But I feel obligated to record for the record (that could be a good band name...) my cultural "educations" of this past weekend regarding intercity government buses. In India, or Tamil Nadu at least, if you are a male and you are sitting on a bus for longer than say, 15 minutes, then it is OK, I repeat, perfectly OK, to doze off on your neighbors shoulder. In fact if there are several of you in a row you can all lean on each other until the white guy next to the window is bearing the entire weight of your collapsed, drooling, sneezing/snoring bodies, no matter that it makes him even more uncomfortable than he was in the first place in dealing with the distance between the seats being several inches less than the length of his femurs.

Also, if the white guy decides to elbow you in the side, giving you the Indian equivalent of a subtle hint that maybe this isn't his idea of an ideal bus ride up the coast, just simply rock the other way for a few seconds and then return to your prior position. There's really not much he can do. And, if for some reason, you find sleep difficult in the long run, which is unlikely considering you can probably sleep through the next World War, it's OK to just linger somewhere between sleep and waking life as you rhythmically shift your weight around and perform a unique ritual of coughing, sneezing, grumbling and wiping your nose, often in the direction of your white neighbor.

And make sure to push and shove as your stop approaches. Otherwise people might get confused as to what you're doing, and why.

14.2.08

Where is my mind?

Six years ago today my good friend Eli Farmer died in a tragic sledding accident. As each year passes I try to mark the date with something meaningful (besides Valentine's Day...). I thought this year paying tribute to a Pixies song we covered in our high school band seemed appropriate, considering how often I've found myself in search of my mind lately.

Where is my mind? for download

for streaming from youtube

Optional reader participation: comment on something you feel passionate about, maybe something you could imagine doing regularly and happily for the rest of your life.

13.2.08

Below taken from government project management assessment of building construction methods fall 2007, Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India-

Objective
: transport bricks from ground to level 1 of building under construction.

Success rate: nearly 50%.

Problem areas: man in charge of catching bricks thrown from ground (man B) often fails in primary task of catching brick (see "crucial moment"). However, if brick is caught, success rate is nearly 100%.

Solution: buy twice as many bricks as necessary, or maybe plastic bricks.

11.2.08

38th annual South Asian World Carom Championships

Carom is a game, I decided as I walked imprecisely back to the train station, one eye scanning the shop fronts for those ketchup-flavored chips so popular in India, that I would describe as a mix between billiards, air hockey, that game that all the cool kids had in 3rd grade called “Crossfire”, and maybe Tiddlywinks, and Pogs too. Tiddlywinks, what a fucked up word.

It’s not often I find myself in such a descriptive disposition, but having just stumbled upon day 2 of the 38th annual South Asian World Carom Championships—a 7 day affair—I needed to crystallize my semiotic grasp over this odd phenomenon.

Carom: two guys sit across from each other looking like they’d rather have a pizza between them than a board covered in chalky powder and checker pieces, and in protest, and possibly hope, they begin to hit the checker pieces back and forth with mild vigor. Once the mild vigor has translated its energy into all the pieces reaching pockets (still no pizza) the scorekeeper makes a mark on his piece of paper, sweeps some of the chalky residue onto the floor, and it all begins again.

At the championships each team had a (slightly) different colored polo shirt with their home turf (eg. Delhi, Tamil Nadu, Nagaland, Gujarat) printed on the back. Another example of how things such as individual style and other obsessions with choice often get tossed to the birds when confronted with 1 billion mostly third-world people.

Someday I hope to learn the actual rules of Carom so I can adjust them accordingly and invent the best drinking game ever. Maybe something like “every time you hit a piece into a pocket you have to chug a pitcher of beer.” Zach, if you’re reading, please begin conducting preliminary tests at UCSB. You will be duly compensated with beer.

The ants are after my pasta juice

The ants are after my pasta juice. They are crawling out of the cracks near the sink, red, tiny, and antsy. I tried to clean up so well, with such attention to eatables, but no there’s always something and there’s always bugs. You always miss something and now I’m reflecting on that and writing this down and it’s all because the ants are after my pasta juice. The juice that fell through the colander as I transported the pasta from the sink back to the pot, milky and creamy and and…

And all of the sudden I want something to flow from me and hit something else fast and hard. I want India to believe in me but not that much, and vice versa. So I reflect on that and other confusing things and it feels really boring to reflect right now. Instead I want to release a current of swear words. I want to say the word ‘bored’ over and over again in bad accents. I once dated a girl who insisted that boredom was all in ones head and I never argued with her but eventually I got bored of her, or maybe she dumped me. I rode the train again today, back and forth. It’s better to face backwards otherwise the oncoming pollution hits you right in the face, and you can’t hit back.

I’m two thirds of the way through the Godfather trilogy and seven weeks away from leaving India. I’m waking up at 5:30 tomorrow morning to go to an Indian wedding. They film everything and you sit in plastic chairs watching it on a screen because the guys with the video cameras are in the way. Just like everything else, it’s crazy.

Sacred cows. Cows make people feel useful, they make them appear determined and efficient, relatively, compared to cows at least. But they are also calming and their presence peaceful, serene, if you can handle the swarming flies. Africa, Asia, America, we all love our cows; some love their meat, some their dairy, some the cows themselves, some people just like to love things. But when you’re in the middle of a trash-strewn, people-crammed, dirty, dank, manky feeling place and your mind is beginning to mix hot and cold and spin like a tornado, and then a few cows mosey past, gnawing on junk and casually swishing their tails, then maybe you can feel something like I’d like to express, something transcendental.

The Godfather says, “keep your friends close, but your enemies closer.” I think my adage for the day will be, “there’s always something, and there’s always bugs.”



6.2.08

keyless

My computer is in the shop. The problem: overprotection. The culprit: a hard case I purchased on eBay before coming to India. This case, a slightly transparent brown, snaps one piece onto the top and one onto the bottom of the computer. Oh yeah, and the small print failed to mention this; it also warps the actual computer causing rows of pixels to turn red and green. Eventually I realized this, and now use the case as a sort of dust bin/ash tray, for which it is much better designed.

Moral: overprotection can backfire, even in India. I can't say for sure, but I doubt this applies to sexual mores as well.

I'm amazed at the difficulty I have in writing anything physically "down". Without a keyboard to pound on I can't seem to string together more than a few scattered notes. I imagine this is partially attributable to the dismal state of my handwriting, which I prefer not to remind myself of, but it's also something more, something greater than me or my handwriting, something to do with changing times and lifestyles and the future of the human race. But anyways, back to myself. I find writing slow and lugubrious, unable to keep up with my thoughts. To write an entire blog entry by hand, let alone a novel, seems at this point incomprehensible (especially the blog entry, when you think about it).

Sad how readily we shed the past sometimes, I think as I type, maybe I should just leave my computer in the shop...forever. Maybe a quill pen and a bottle of ink would grant me a level of profundity unattainable in this day and age. Maybe I should join the gang of neighborhood monkeys, itching and scratching. Maybe staring at screens isn't really all it's cracked up to be. I know for certain that staring at cracked screens isn't.

4.2.08

Lately

Lately Ari has been busy, exhausted and uncreative. Yes, this is very uncharacteristic of Ari. Yes, he will bounce back like one of those small balls bouncing on top of one of those large balls. He will blast into space. He will wow.

In the meantime here's two videos. Don't be misguided- these by far represent one of the cleanest places I've seen in India. It was a Mughal capitol. I paid a $12 entrance fee to help support the upkeep. Indian citizens pay about $0.25. I think a relevant cultural comparison could be construed from this. But I'm not quite sure what. Like I said I'm feeling uncreative.

One plaque explained that an emperor had built 800 apartments to house his 800 concubines. A nearby British lady gasped in disbelief and her husband suggested this Mughal emperor was a better man than he, unless he was on some sort of Viagra, in which case he wanted some of that! I slipped away when they started talking about the logistics of such an undertaking.






25.1.08

North India is like South India's older brother, or uncle or something: colder, more severe, features more pronounced and ominous, less naive, more distinguished, more smelling of burning tires. Mostly colder and with different stomach bacteria though.

Although I'm told that in the summer it's hotter in the north than in the south, so I might choose different words then, such as: hotter, grimier, sandy, winds of timelessness.

Ian McEwan smiled at me today!

18.1.08

Around Chennai...bored on a Saturday

This is a picture of downtown Argentina.


I paid this auto driver to pretend to be asleep. Auto drivers are phenomenally hard working and wouldn't sleep on the job, especially not in their own autos, and ESPECIALLY not with rich white camera-yielding tourists nearby. So naturally I had to bribe him heavily to get the shot I wanted.


This is a nearby McDonald's I sometimes frequent. They don't serve beef unfortunately (some BS about sacred cows), but the raw dough is much tastier that I expected. And they'll even cook it if you request.



This is the local police station. The man in the pink is the chief fruit thrower. I've seen him gun down two local miscreants with just a pair of limes.


These are motorcycles. They're like cars here. And the cars here are like American buses. And we don't have anything like Indian buses in America. Airplanes are the same in both countries, interestingly enough.


This man is climbing into an airplane and an anonymous women is grabbing his ass.

16.1.08

gchat life coach

Me: i think i have this drive to be legitimate in some conventional fashion that goes against my natural inclinations
Adam: you should know this already but, you will never be legitimate or conventional
and i mean that in the nicest way possible

the U.S. Embassy

As I exited into the main courtyard I felt like I could have been in Washington DC—there was grass, somebody was watering it, the parking lot had a few empty spaces, my clothing grasped onto me as if in an attempt to escape the humidity—then I came to my senses, or rather my senses came to me. The perpetual honking reestablished itself as an ambient noise in my inner ear, the traffic on the visible flyover was littered with auto rickshaws, scooters and motorcycles, the grass was less a part of the earth below than a cover up, thinning and shedding like a balding man, and I was surrounded by walls. Yes, I was still in India. No, I had not really forgotten.

It only took me five months to make the five-kilometer journey to the Chennai U.S. Embassy. This could be because my working hours conflicted with theirs, or it could be because the U.S. Embassy possesses very little cultural appeal and seems more like a place to abscond if under imminent attack. It is the only intimidatingly fortified area I’ve seen in all of Chennai, a city of over 8 million, besides the Old Fort, which today acts more as an unnecessarily obstructive wall. Once my Canadian friend and I took the liberty of standing outside the U.S. Embassy walls to reference our map only to be shooed away by Indians in Police uniforms, as a safety precaution of course. In fact everyone working at the Embassy is an Indian in a uniform, not surprising really, it simply makes the degree of the excessive security all the more palpable. Indians on duty have a way of asserting their role as Indians before that as officials: they’ll uphold the law but somehow it’s clear only to avoid reprisal from above.

After passing through two metal detectors, showing my passport twice, and being asked four times about my cell phone and it’s on/off status, I arrived at the “American Library”. A clean, quiet, well-furnished space with those black, mesh computer chairs I so miss from college, I once again felt like I could be in Washington DC. I perused the isles and inquired about the membership fee, I even took some notes, feeling oddly suspicious, as if I’d be shooed away for doing so. But nothing so noteworthy happened. Had I really come all this way just to read a month-old issue of The New York Times? The one thing I’d actually been looking forward to was sitting down with the only hard copy of The NYT in all of south India. But somehow I didn’t really feel like reading about holiday shopping and Thanksgiving recipes in January, not to mention dated Pakistani politics.

Forty-five minutes was more than enough time in the U.S. Embassy, I decided, unless Chennai was under siege. I began the elaborate exit process of signing out, signing in and out of giant booklets is very popular in India, and proceeding through locked doors (less popular) operated by someone whose job description must be something akin to “press button to unlock door when permissible person approaches”. Most of the time I’m left wondering how they manage to keep their jobs.

As I exited the compound the strong impression of crew cuts and sharp glares gave way to mustaches and practiced oblivion. I reflected on the fact that during my last domestic flight in India I hadn’t once had to produce any type of physical identification. I wasn’t sure what I missed back home, what I would miss when I left India, or what was really normal anymore. Not much in any case, not much seemed normal upon reflection.

11.1.08

the exact wrong job...for me at least

There’s a man and he has a job. At first glance nothing worth a second glance. Men have jobs, women have jobs. Jobs lead to taxes, which, aside from death, is the only thing of which we can be certain.

What makes this man’s job special is that it is the exact wrong job for me. This job was designed for someone with every quality I lack. I look into this man’s eyes and I gleam no comprehension; his motivations are a mystery, his inner-workings that of another realm.

This man is a bus shepherd, and we, humankind, are his sheep. We travel to and fro, fro and to, and this man keeps us organized. He herds us as if we were truly his herd, and for that time, from when the bus pulls into view until we sigh with relief as it leaves us gasping for fresh air, we are his herd.

Bus shepherds in Goa work under extreme conditions—the buses are half-size, for no apparent reason, and I doubt for any unapparent reason. The half-sized bus pulls up to the stand, known to foreigners as an unmarked area of pavement where vehicles spontaneously gather and chaos generally increases, with a flourish of honking and yelling. Deep bellows emerge from small Indian men, all across India, You need to hear it to believe it. So in the tradition of small Indian men the bus herder is bellowing deeply something sounding vaguely like the destination of the bus. He’s leaning out the door waving his hands. As the bus approaches he leaps down and starts to herd. With great intensity and vigor, as if this bus getting to wherever he is yelling about was of such great importance in this land where nothing seems to relate much to punctuality. Oh how he herds! He scolds, he argues, he encourages, he shoos, he urges, he is relentless, he is persistent. He has a way of asking if you are going at the same time as he guides you onto the bus so before you know if you are, you are.

It’s been many seconds, maybe almost a minute. The bus has been steadily filling up thanks to our shepherd. The seats have long been occupied and the isle slowly jams up. Now the isle is full and a group of men have gone to sit up with the bus driver in his little cockpit. Now the entryway is full, feet cover all floor space. Yet the shepherd still herds as if the bus were empty. He is not yet satisfied. He wants every last sheep on this vessel. None shall be left behind. Sweat and tears will be shed before he is through.

Finally we’re all accounted for; we can all breathe and if we try and fall we won’t get far. Except one of course. The shepherd must now play both herder and sheep as he maneuvers himself onto the bus. So after all the yelling, shoving, organizing and general clamoring the bus shepherd squeezes himself into the tiniest possible area, always close enough to the door to push it open and snatch up a stray. He is sweaty and breathless, but oddly satisfied with is work, which he performs for over 8 hours a day in squelching heat.

Oh yeah, I almost forget, now he must work his way through the people, often appearing from under an armpit or beneath the curve a sari, and collect the fare, and give change, and remember who’s paid and who hasn’t, and make sure to yell and herd at every stop, and organize people according to their destination, and tell the driver when to go and when to stop, and for God’s sake I’m happy to be doing anything else. I really am. I really really am.
Yesterday as I was walking I got asked directions. This was very odd. It's similar to asking an Indian woman in a sari how to get to the Burrito Spot in Santa Fe: chances for success are slim. But for some reason an auto drove up beside me, presumably aware of my white skin and foreign dress as a significant part of being an auto driver is visual capacity, and the man in the back asked "this is Shastri Nagar?" This is like driving up to someone in the Bay Area and asking "this is Oakland?" Well, it turns out this person was just lost enough for an aloof foreigner to actually help them out. I responded "no, this is Besant Nagar." Which is like saying "no, you're in Berkeley buddy." The guy seemed to value my answer, and they drove off with a wag of the head.

4.1.08

shoe gazing

As I was shopping for sandals today, meaning being finagled into purchasing something I really didn't intend to buy, someone tried to buy my shoes.

That's right. I took my shoes off to try on some sandals, on the sidewalk in some ancient city, and an innocent observer, Indian, male, twenties, asked how much I wanted for my shoes. I didn't think he was serious but when he persisted that I say a price first I realized this was no tourist trick; this man actually saw my old, old moss green Saucony shoes sitting on the sidewalk and thought "I would look good in those", or maybe "my prospective wife would really respond well to those", or possibly "green shoes!". He certainly didn't consider the size or relatively poor condition of the shoes.

For a brief, all-too-fleeting moment a thought crossed my mind which I believe to have had something to do with giving him the shoes for free, out of generosity or universal indifference or something, but then I came to my senses. Even though he was willing to pay more than I was paying for my new handmade, leather flip-flops, equipped with the individual big-toe hole of which we all thought Dustin and his hippie friends were forerunners of but in reality has been around in India since blessing elephants and sacred cows, I couldn't imagine my hard-earned and well-worn Sauconies on the feet of a short, skinny Indian youth.

Anyways this surprise double bargain impeded on my bargaining abilities for the sandals and I felt unable to run a hard deal and not sell my shoes to the bystanding India. So I paid a little extra to keep my shoes. Maybe not such a bad deal after all.

3.1.08

India.Aried

I am still in India. I am excited about this sometimes. Usually not when there isn't a fan on my face. I spent more time on the beach in the last two weeks than I did for all of college, and I went to school at UC-Santa Barabara: college kids die there every year from getting too close to the beach cliffs when they are wasted. My roommates and I once saved a kids life, he was running straight off the cliff like a pop-punk music video and we all kind of regretted grabbing him.

In India the tourist beaches are like other worlds situated closely, in fact, immediately against, as if in support of each other, the real India. The real India is full of Indians and food places with excessive dishes but no silverware. The streets are the bathrooms and wireless internet is under no high demand. Traffic pulses and dirt spills, etc. The tourist beaches have omelettes and some restaurants even have magazines to read. French press coffee is often available and so are board shorts. Everyone wears clothing they purchased in the last two weeks and they tell each other they know it looks silly but it's so darn comfortable. Everyone not trying to take money from you is white, perhaps Russian, perhaps Icelandic, probably French. There are no buses, just beaches, and backpacks, and tanning lotions. Indians put oil in their hair, we rub it on our body.

On my way to the airport with Jenn two weeks ago, at the beginning of this vacation, we shared our auto with an Indian man, or rather he shared it with us. He imparted many words of wisdom upon us, as English-speaking Indian men interested in sharing their auto with white people are inclined to do. I forget most of it, but one thing stuck, "In your country you kiss in public and pee in private, in our country we kiss in private and pee in public."

Take your pick.